Where To Sleep
Dar Seffarine. This place, a 600 year old, beautifully restored riad, is a photogenic gem. Owners Norwegian graphic designer Kate and her husband, Iraqi architect Alaa, have created a super friendly atmosphere with communal dining. Each night guests trade stories over amazing home cooked food (and wine, which can be hard to come by). If you take one thing away from this, it should be to stay here. The staff can also help organize guides and drivers.
Jardin Des Biehn. Lacks the spirit of Dar Seffarine but makes up for it with design aesthetic and photogenic qualities. Beautifully appointed rooms, jam packed with antique Moroccan and Uzbek textiles, surround an Andalusian style courtyard garden planted with scented flowers and aromatic citrus trees. It has an onsite hamman too